Once we start worrying too often or too deeply about what certain individuals and what certain groups think about us, then we might start selling our souls for the sake of expediency. I suggest if that day ever comes, then the press has had it.

Surfing is an individual expression of one's own worth and one's own ability to participate directly with nature. And what makes it really enjoyable to me is that every wave is different... there's a special, non-repetitive pleasure in it that never gets boring.

Los Angelesand all of southern california is destined to become the greatest metropolitan area the world has ever known.