Quote

When you don't use sugar in your diet, all of the sudden fruits are really sweet. Honey is really sweet. Your taste buds change. I'm not psycho never have anything sweet, because that takes too much energy. The stress on your body just isn't worth it.

Laird Hamilton

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Laird Hamilton
Age: 60
Born: 1964
Born: March 2
Fisher
Kitesurfer
Model
Surfer
Laird John Hamilton
Energy
Sudden
Buds
Change
Stress
Bud
Anything
Fruit
Psycho
Body
Taste
Fruits
Much
Sweet
Diet
Really
Worth
Diets
Never
Takes
Sugar
Use
Honey

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Life with three daughters can be nerve-wracking, but it's amazing to be loved by so many different women.
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The idea is to become an old wizard to live a long and fruitful life and have family and be healthy and enjoy the ride. And speaking of the ride, why not let it rip, at least a little bit? Everyone I know who's really stoked about getting out of bed in the morning does that to some extent.
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You have to decide what level you want to participate in your children's lives. The more you do, the better your relationship is going to be. You have to listen to your instincts. You know when it's time to lay down the law.
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I need a big wave to really excel. The smaller stuff is a bit like...ballet for me.
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Do not be afraid of death. Be afraid of the half-lived life!
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I'm the dad, the cleanup guy. I deal with the bigger messes. But I also provide more adventures and excitement. It works out.
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For those searching for something more than just the norm. We lay it all down, including what others call sanity, for just a few moments on waves larger than life. We do this because we know there is still something greater than all of us. Something that inspires us spiritually. We start going down hill, when we stop taking risks.
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Wiping out is an underappreciated skill.
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Normally, people who are frustrated out in the water are frustrated on land. They brought their frustration with them. If you go to a beach where there are a hundred guys out, and you paddle out looking to ride waves alone, you're setting yourself up.
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