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There is a wisdom in the wave - high-born, beautiful - for those who would but paddle out.
"Dorian ""Doc"" Paskowitz"
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"Dorian ""Doc"" Paskowitz"
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More quotes by "Dorian ""Doc"" Paskowitz"
Once I learned to swim, I learned that there were waves.
"Dorian ""Doc"" Paskowitz"
A real man is capable of controlling himself before he controls his children.
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Health is a presence of a superior state of wellbeing, a vigor, a vitality, a pizzazz you have to work for every single day of your life.
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The reason he [Duke Kahanamouku] didn't like me was that I liked him too much.
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Big wave surfers are human beings that have powers. They are men of enormous gentility.
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Health begets Spirit.
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When I kept surfing, surfing kept me.
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Some of the most profound realizations that I came to about health did not derive from medicine, but derived from surfing.
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Wisdom comes from intent, experience, and finding courage.
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Love really makes the world go round, but sex makes love go round.
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I don't see myself as legendary. If you want a legend, talk about someone like Duke Kahanamoku.
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I think it is easy to be a doctor. There are a hell of a lot more doctors than there are guys riding big Pipeline.
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God loves happy people.
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Death is not a stalker, always looking for us. Death is a scorekeeper tallying up how much we love life and how much we are willing to work for it. We die when we stop living.
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Everything that mattered, I learned from surfing.
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I love to be called Doc.
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The real enemy is not fat but us. We are the misusers we are the greedy ones. If we have no better sense than to purposefully destroy ourselves, it is no wonder that nature punishes us with vile diseases and calls in our maker long before their time. Nature remembers every extra bite of cherry pie, T-bone steak, fried chicken, pizza.
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Health is survival. But survival with style and class.
"Dorian ""Doc"" Paskowitz"
The greatest thing in life is health.
"Dorian ""Doc"" Paskowitz"
It's easier to die when you have lived, than it is to die when you haven't. So I say to all young people, go make memories beautiful memories. Because when the time comes to go, you won't go alone.
"Dorian ""Doc"" Paskowitz"