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There is a wisdom in the wave - high-born, beautiful - for those who would but paddle out.
"Dorian ""Doc"" Paskowitz"
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"Dorian ""Doc"" Paskowitz"
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More quotes by "Dorian ""Doc"" Paskowitz"
The greatest thing in life is health.
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Health is survival. But survival with style and class.
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Health is a presence of a superior state of wellbeing, a vigor, a vitality, a pizzazz you have to work for every single day of your life.
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Big wave surfers are human beings that have powers. They are men of enormous gentility.
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I think it is easy to be a doctor. There are a hell of a lot more doctors than there are guys riding big Pipeline.
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Health begets Spirit.
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It's easier to die when you have lived, than it is to die when you haven't. So I say to all young people, go make memories beautiful memories. Because when the time comes to go, you won't go alone.
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I don't see myself as legendary. If you want a legend, talk about someone like Duke Kahanamoku.
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Wisdom comes from intent, experience, and finding courage.
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God loves happy people.
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Everything that mattered, I learned from surfing.
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The real enemy is not fat but us. We are the misusers we are the greedy ones. If we have no better sense than to purposefully destroy ourselves, it is no wonder that nature punishes us with vile diseases and calls in our maker long before their time. Nature remembers every extra bite of cherry pie, T-bone steak, fried chicken, pizza.
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Once I learned to swim, I learned that there were waves.
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I love to be called Doc.
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It's easier to die when you have lived than it is to die when you haven't.
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A real man is capable of controlling himself before he controls his children.
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Love really makes the world go round, but sex makes love go round.
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Some of the most profound realizations that I came to about health did not derive from medicine, but derived from surfing.
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The reason he [Duke Kahanamouku] didn't like me was that I liked him too much.
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Death is not a stalker, always looking for us. Death is a scorekeeper tallying up how much we love life and how much we are willing to work for it. We die when we stop living.
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