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Health is a presence of a superior state of wellbeing, a vigor, a vitality, a pizzazz you have to work for every single day of your life.
"Dorian ""Doc"" Paskowitz"
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"Dorian ""Doc"" Paskowitz"
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When I kept surfing, surfing kept me.
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It's easier to die when you have lived, than it is to die when you haven't. So I say to all young people, go make memories beautiful memories. Because when the time comes to go, you won't go alone.
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I'm one of the few dumb Jewish doctors.
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The reason he [Duke Kahanamouku] didn't like me was that I liked him too much.
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My favorite toy or game has been the ocean. My real passion is for saltwater.
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Health is survival. But survival with style and class.
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There is a wisdom in the wave - high-born, beautiful - for those who would but paddle out.
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I don't see myself as legendary. If you want a legend, talk about someone like Duke Kahanamoku.
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Wisdom comes from intent, experience, and finding courage.
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Once I learned to swim, I learned that there were waves.
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A real man is capable of controlling himself before he controls his children.
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It's easier to die when you have lived than it is to die when you haven't.
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I think it is easy to be a doctor. There are a hell of a lot more doctors than there are guys riding big Pipeline.
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I love to be called Doc.
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Big wave surfers are human beings that have powers. They are men of enormous gentility.
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Everything that mattered, I learned from surfing.
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Love really makes the world go round, but sex makes love go round.
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Death is not a stalker, always looking for us. Death is a scorekeeper tallying up how much we love life and how much we are willing to work for it. We die when we stop living.
"Dorian ""Doc"" Paskowitz"
Some of the most profound realizations that I came to about health did not derive from medicine, but derived from surfing.
"Dorian ""Doc"" Paskowitz"