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Big wave surfers are human beings that have powers. They are men of enormous gentility.
"Dorian ""Doc"" Paskowitz"
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"Dorian ""Doc"" Paskowitz"
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More quotes by "Dorian ""Doc"" Paskowitz"
I'm one of the few dumb Jewish doctors.
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I love to be called Doc.
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Health is a presence of a superior state of wellbeing, a vigor, a vitality, a pizzazz you have to work for every single day of your life.
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Once I learned to swim, I learned that there were waves.
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I don't see myself as legendary. If you want a legend, talk about someone like Duke Kahanamoku.
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God loves happy people.
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Some of the most profound realizations that I came to about health did not derive from medicine, but derived from surfing.
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A real man is capable of controlling himself before he controls his children.
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The reason he [Duke Kahanamouku] didn't like me was that I liked him too much.
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When I kept surfing, surfing kept me.
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Everything that mattered, I learned from surfing.
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Death is not a stalker, always looking for us. Death is a scorekeeper tallying up how much we love life and how much we are willing to work for it. We die when we stop living.
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Health begets Spirit.
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The real enemy is not fat but us. We are the misusers we are the greedy ones. If we have no better sense than to purposefully destroy ourselves, it is no wonder that nature punishes us with vile diseases and calls in our maker long before their time. Nature remembers every extra bite of cherry pie, T-bone steak, fried chicken, pizza.
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Wisdom comes from intent, experience, and finding courage.
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It's easier to die when you have lived than it is to die when you haven't.
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The greatest thing in life is health.
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My favorite toy or game has been the ocean. My real passion is for saltwater.
"Dorian ""Doc"" Paskowitz"
There is a wisdom in the wave - high-born, beautiful - for those who would but paddle out.
"Dorian ""Doc"" Paskowitz"
I think it is easy to be a doctor. There are a hell of a lot more doctors than there are guys riding big Pipeline.
"Dorian ""Doc"" Paskowitz"
